It was almost out of that Disney surfer movie, Johnny Tsunami. One of my bros sent out a text "Hey. Going to the beach to play/surf in some bay waves. Txt if keen." Was I keen? There were letters to be written, PowerPoint presentations to be done, and books to be read. I left them to mind themselves, slapped on some sunscreen and grabbed by Australian flag beach towel. I was keen.
My surfing amigo pulled up in his newly purchased camper van. It was loaded with surfboards and a kayak in the back. We headed down to the beach and fought tooth and nail for a beachside parking spot. Will and Aaron hauled the kayak to the beach and I tucked one of the surfboards under my arm. Yeah, like they do in the movies.
First, I did some careful documentation. People had to believe I had really tried surfing. Then I put that awesome ankle cuff thing on that ties you to the surfboard incase you ride a 40 foot wave and it dumps you on your head. Can't lose the board! I pushed the board out into the waves, Will giving me directions all the way. When it got deep enough, I pulled myself onto it and paddled. Like a real surfer who says bro and gnarly all the time, I paddled up and over those waves. Will watched the waves and started shouting "PADDLE!" when it was go time.
I paddled like mad to get myself going to match the wave's speed. My wimpy paddling didn't avail much, so I missed a few waves. I tried sitting up on the board like the surfies do when they're waiting for a good wave. That's the part in the shark movies where they see fins and stuff. It's harder than it looks. Now I understand why my surfer friends have 6 pack abs. They sit on surfboards instead of balance balls in the gym.
I caught a few waves, just laying down riding the crest of the wave. After a few times, you pick up on the feel of the wave carrying you. I even got up on my knees a couple times. The trick was getting to my feet. You have to be quick, committed. As soon as the wave starts to lift the back of the board, you have to spring up and plant your feet. Also, just a note, when you bail, shut your mouth! Ocean water is gross.
Aaron finally offered to give my board a push to give me some momentum before a wave. That aided my pitiful paddling attempts. Finally. Finally. On the third push, I GOT UP!
It was only a moment, but it was my moment. I had both feet planted on the board. I had risen, victorious. It wasn't long before I wobbled and pitched off the side and came up hollering "I SURFED! I SURFED!" Granted, I got a push and my form wasn't great, and the waves were baby ones, but, ladies and gentlemen, it counts.
There you have it, my first hand account of surfing in Australia. Today was only day one of many, I hope, in my surfing education. Thanks to all those who aided and abetted this effort.
Good night,
Little Miss Sunshine
No comments:
Post a Comment